Headlight Washer Control Unit Input Test

1.Remove the dashboard lower cover.

2.Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the headlight washer control unit (B).

 

3.Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.

  • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
  • If the terminals look OK, go to 4.

4.With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.

  • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
  • If all the input tests prove OK, replace the headlight washer control unit.

Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 
RED/YEL Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage. 
  • Blown No. 14 (40A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
  • Blown No. 15 (30A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
  • An open in the wire
 
WHT/BLU Ignition switch ON (II) and washer switch ON Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage. 
  • Blown No. 20 (20A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
  • Faulty washer switch
  • An open in the wire
 
RED/YEL Headlight switch ON Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage. 
  • Blown No. 15 (15A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
  • Faulty headlight relay 2
  • Faulty combination light switch
  • An open in the wire
 
BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground:
There should be continuity. 
  • Poor ground (G501)
  • An open in the wire
 
WHT/RED Connect the No. 1 terminal to the No. 2 terminal with a jumper wire. Check motor operation:
The headlight washer motor should run. 
  • Faulty headlight washer motor
  • An open in the wire